How To Create GW Artificially?, Split From Topic 1332 Options

[HappyBuddha]

This new topic is splited from here.
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I think theres not much difference from using artificial lighting or the sun except sun is more efficient in generating green water. And most importantly, its FREE 

Actually there is an important specification to look out for when selecting an artificial light source to keep green water -- the colour temperature must emulate natural day light as closely as possible. Look for a lamp with a output of between 6,500 Kelvin to 10,000 Kelvin. Anything less than 6,500 kelvin will be yellowish, while above 10,000 Kelvin too blueish.

I can't remember who... but recently a fellow member was getting nitrite reading in his green water, and I suspect without much investigation that it's due to his Metal Halide lamp producing less than 6,500 Kelvin. If you ever try to keep outdoors plants indoor by beaming it with very "bright" (but yellowish) incandscent lamp (about 3000 Kelvin only), you'll find your plants die because you didn't provide enough "sunlight" although the lamp is "bright". On the other hand, the same plant can probably survive longer if you provide it with a not-so-bright flourence lamp with a "daylight" rating.

To find out more... Osram has brochures that explains light colour:-

http://www.osram.com/service_corner/downlo...uchtstofflampen

[The Matrix]

in his green water, and I suspect without much investigation that it's due to his Metal Halide lamp producing less than 6,500 Kelvin.  If you ever try to keep outdoors plants indoor by beaming it with very "bright" (but yellowish) incandscent lamp (about 3000 Kelvin only), you'll find your plants die because you didn't provide enough "sunlight" although the lamp is "bright".  On the other hand, the same plant can probably survive longer if you provide it with a not-so-bright flourence lamp with a "daylight" rating.

My the other tub is using a 70W 3600K MH lamp leh, still green leh. hmmmm

[HappyBuddha]

Could be. I hv transfered my three 2" goldfish to a guppy tub filled with 130L of water. Thats way way underload. I hope the green water wont turn brown due to lack of ammonia.

green water won't turn brown because of low ammonia. It simply won't get intense.

If your tub is getting enough sunlight but not enough ammonia due to low stock level, then solve the later problem by creating ammonia artificially such as letting excess pellets to rot in the water. Just make sure you replensih the artificially created ammonia constantly, ie, keep topping up with new pellets. I think it should work....

[HappyBuddha]

My the other tub is using a 70W 3600K MH lamp leh, still green leh. hmmmm

Wah, you champion. That sounds like a quartz security lamp, isn't it? I won't doubt your setup but it goes completly against what I understand. Strange....

Hmm... come to think abou tit, those quartz security lamp can be bought for just $50-$60. It may be an alternative for some bros here to try.

[The Matrix]

Wah, you champion.  That sounds like a quartz security lamp, isn't it?  I won't doubt your setup but it goes completly against what I understand.    Strange....

Hmm... come to think abou tit, those quartz security lamp can be bought for just $50-$60.  It may be an alternative for some bros here to try.

better not. It's not easy to control low powered lamp. Just information that as long as there is light, somewhat sufficiently for the unicelluar algae to grow.

[cktan]

green water won't turn brown because of low ammonia.  It simply won't get intense.

If your tub is getting enough sunlight but not enough ammonia due to low stock level, then solve the later problem by creating ammonia artificially such as letting excess pellets to rot in the water.  Just make sure you replensih the artificially created ammonia constantly, ie, keep topping up with new pellets.  I think it should work....

It will work for sure. But im afraid too much uneaten food will cultivate bacteria and fish will fall sick sooner or later.

My first try was a 6cm goldfish in a 130L water of guppy tub. It took 2 mths for the water to become green. I still do 90% water changes weekly even b4 the water turns green. After the water turns intense green which is 2 mths later, i continue the normal routine of 90% water change weekly. But then, the green seems to disappear. Ammonia and nitrite will spike . I think i believe i did wrong was, i only ON my 150W MH light for 6 hrs. goldfish doesnt seem to like the bright light leh, so no choice got to shorten the photo period. It always remain stationary at one corner until the light goes off.

Im monitoring this time with underloading of goldfish whether the green will "dissappear". But this time, hehehe, i ON the MH light for 10 hours.

[The Matrix]

It will work for sure. But im afraid too much uneaten food will cultivate bacteria and fish will fall sick sooner or later.

My first try was a 6cm goldfish in a 130L water of guppy tub. It took 2 mths for the water to become green. I still do 90% water changes weekly even b4 the water turns green. After the water turns intense green which is 2 mths later, i continue the normal routine of 90% water change weekly. But then, the green seems to disappear. Ammonia and nitrite will spike  .  I think i believe i did wrong was, i only ON my 150W MH light for 6 hrs. goldfish doesnt seem to like the bright light leh, so no choice got to shorten the photo period. It always remain stationary at one corner until the light goes off.

Im monitoring this time with underloading of goldfish whether the green will "dissappear". But this time, hehehe, i ON the MH light for 10 hours.

CK, let's address some of your issues...

those china farms under hot sun, do they use shades ? Who cares if the goldfish scare of light. Why so KS ? Important is to get the sufficient amount of light.

If you afraid of uneaten food, then feed little and increase frequencies. U using timer or not ?

If taking 2 mths to turn green, then u got a major problem. If the green tends to disappear, you got even bigger headache. No wonder your NH3 and NO2 moving upwwards.

[CyberET]

If your tub is getting enough sunlight but not enough ammonia due to low stock level, then solve the later problem by creating ammonia artificially such as letting excess pellets to rot in the water.  Just make sure you replensih the artificially created ammonia constantly, ie, keep topping up with new pellets.  I think it should work....

did you try it yourself first?

[HappyBuddha]

did you try it yourself first?

I did say "I think it should work..." so it's obvious I haven't try but... I think it should work.

Is something missing from the equation? Having doubts that rotting pellets can create enough ammonia?

[CyberET]

I did say "I think it should work..." so it's obvious I haven't try but... I think it should work.

Is something missing from the equation?  Having doubts that rotting pellets can create enough ammonia? 

you try first then post your findings a month later
or u could ask cktan

[desireless]

It will work for sure. But im afraid too much uneaten food will cultivate bacteria and fish will fall sick sooner or later.

My first try was a 6cm goldfish in a 130L water of guppy tub. It took 2 mths for the water to become green. I still do 90% water changes weekly even b4 the water turns green. After the water turns intense green which is 2 mths later, i continue the normal routine of 90% water change weekly. But then, the green seems to disappear. Ammonia and nitrite will spike  .  I think i believe i did wrong was, i only ON my 150W MH light for 6 hrs. goldfish doesnt seem to like the bright light leh, so no choice got to shorten the photo period. It always remain stationary at one corner until the light goes off.

Im monitoring this time with underloading of goldfish whether the green will "dissappear". But this time, hehehe, i ON the MH light for 10 hours.

2 months is too long for green water to kick start. You should check your setup. How is your setup like? Did you have a filter in it? Your main problem is the "method" which you've used to kick start the green. Before the green begins to kick in, the water will need to pass through a state of high waste level. You shouldn't change water at this time because the waste level is what's needed before the green finally kick in. Yes, fish will be stressed here but there's nothing else that could be done.

I would also suggest using lesser water if you want to use the "with fish" method. Typical 4 inch fish will only need about 40litres of water. I would suppose that your MH light is the type that's available in the market and strong enough (10,000K) to simulate (cloudless) sunlight. So 6 hours per day is definitely more than enough. For a virgin brew, you need to use a smaller volume of water. I have used 40L of water for two 2-inch fishes. And now whenever I need to cultivate virgin brew, I will use "fishless" method which only need 3L of water. Using PL lamp with 24hours of operation and a lot of pellets for the waste spike, I will be able to get intensely green water in just 4-5 days.

[cktan]

Thats what i think also. 2 mths very long hoh. Alvin Lim advice me on the setup leh. Shouldnt be wrong right? No filter, only an airstone, with a 10cm Ranchu inside. Light op is 150W 10,000K bulb hang at 35 cm above water level surface. I cannot reduce the water else the water level in the tub will be less than 20cm and goldfish might get "burned" by the strong light. Changing 90% water weekly till water turns green also taught to me by Alvin. Sh be ok, just that this way, green will kick in much much longer. But he did warn me that tub is underloaded and might take some time for green to kick in. Aiii, end up, green didnt come in but high ammonia and nitrite came

Anyway, im satisfied with my 2nd try. 2 weeks to get intense green. I think the receipe is to overload the tub, more hrs of lighting and seeding back 50% of water instead of 10%.

By the way, did u ever test yr green water for nitrite say after 5 days?

[cktan]

CK, let's address some of your issues...

those china farms under hot sun, do they use shades ? Who cares if the goldfish scare of light. Why so KS ? Important is to get the sufficient amount of light.

If you afraid of uneaten food, then feed little and increase frequencies. U using timer or not ?

If taking 2 mths to turn green, then u got a major problem. If the green tends to disappear, you got even bigger headache. No wonder your NH3 and NO2 moving upwwards.

China one i didnt see shade. Jap goldfish breeder i did see them use shade. The goldfish very pitiful leh. Hide one corner and can remain that way the whole day without moving much. But once the light goes off, it then start to swim around, dart about actually (if u know what problem im having). Weird fish.

I got timer. As i said, food poured out but goldfish always remain at the one corner. Even if food pour in front of it, it wont eat much. I saw it took > 3 hours to finish just 2 clicks of food with lights on. Simply not interested in food.

The goldfish often dart and scratch at tub bottom. See already also heart pain. For dunno what reason it behave that way. End up 3 mths later. It float midway, body slanted to one side while at rest, and hv difficulty eating floating pellets. It eat floating food by tilting its body sideways. I returned this poor goldfish to its owner and he said its normal .

My current Gfs darting behaviour still unsolved till now.

[square_guy]

Light op is 150W 10,000K bulb hang at 35 cm above water level surface.

did alvin advise you to use 10,000K bulb as well?

[The Matrix]

China one i didnt see shade. Jap goldfish breeder i did see them use shade. The goldfish very pitiful leh. Hide one corner and can remain that way the whole day without moving much. But once the light goes off, it then start to swim around, dart about actually (if u know what problem im having). Weird fish.

I got timer. As i said, food poured out but goldfish always remain at the one corner. Even if food pour in front of it, it wont eat much. I saw it took > 3 hours to finish just 2 clicks of food with lights on. Simply not interested in food.

The goldfish often dart and scratch at tub bottom. See already also heart pain. For dunno what reason it behave that way. End up 3 mths later. It float midway, body slanted to one side while at rest, and hv difficulty eating floating pellets. It eat floating food by tilting its body sideways.  I returned this poor goldfish to its owner and he said its normal  .

My current Gfs darting behaviour still unsolved till now. 

More issues to address isn't it ?

Pitiful for the fish ? Goodness .... u very the angmo pie leh.

Since you got advices, why didn't u seek further clarification ?

Darting around usually due to stress. If your present fish still in such manner, better try to find out why before you attempt further "experiment" on the poor fish.

A 10cm fish in a blue tub fill up to 20++cm ... understock. No wonder 2 months lah. But of course, you could have seek for help instead of waiting 2 months. Have you ? Anyone advice you that your bulb is over-rated ?

Most test kits do not have the capability to test green water. U might need to use the stripes type or that .... sharks what brand again ... someone help me out ...