What Is The Tap Water Ph At Your Area? Ph 8.8? Options

[The Matrix]

Do any members have high ph like 8.8 in their tap water, like mine?? 

Edited my email above by inserting the following from a website: http://www.geocities.com/Tokyo/4468/faq_care.html

7. Should I try to adjust the pH of my water?

No. I have successfully kept goldfish in pH 6.5 and pH 8.5 water. Your life will be wretched unless you get your fish used to the natural pH of your water. The main problem is that pH adjustments tend initially not to be stable; the pH bounces back towards the original pH after adjustment, requiring multiple treatments. Goldfish should not be subjected to this.

Russ Taylor has given a good advice. Dun be bothered by all these ph thing.

if the ph at your area is really fluctuating too much, then u just get the fish out to a pail with the old tank water during water change, fill the tank up and slowly pour in new tank water to the pail. allow the fish to adapt to the new water. just a few liters of water wasted is better than doing a lot of weird things.

[CP]

PUB will ask u, after a meal, what drink did you flush down your throat.

Our human body system able to take the extremes. Our tap water can change, and as long as human can consume, WHO guideline do not spell out a must for municipal drinking water standard to be suitable for fishes or dogs or birds.

Yo Cpiw stop being crude but bear in mind that municipal water are always monitored and regulated with regards to HUMAN consumption only and not calibrated with other animals in mind.So what is fit for human drinking does not mean it is fit for fish rearing and thus do not call PUB for this grievance!
regards

goldrush

(
Okie dokie.

I have seen with my very own eyes a fluctuation of water parameters wiping out half the livestock in a LFS during water change.The owner suspected a sudden rise in either chlorine or chloramine levels and PUB was called.The reply (I presume a standard govt reply) was that they have tested the water and it conforms to WHO guidelines for human consumption.

True, our tap water is for drinking not fishkeeping but what I am saying is that PUB should be informed so that they realise it may be a problem.

[The Matrix]

PUB should be informed  so that they realise it may be a problem.

hahahaha .... when did they start to change chlorine to chloramines ? when did they started to use newater ?

kekekekeke .... they will not even tell the public.

[ranchu8]

7. Should I try to adjust the pH of my water?

No. I have successfully kept goldfish in pH 6.5 and pH 8.5 water. Your life will be wretched unless you get your fish used to the natural pH of your water. The main problem is that pH adjustments tend initially not to be stable; the pH bounces back towards the original pH after adjustment, requiring multiple treatments. Goldfish should not be subjected to this.

I don't think Russ Taylor suggested that one should not be bothered by ph. He also has the following to say in the same webpage:

"Goldfish can survive quite well in almost any pH, but they can be harmed by sudden changes of more than a few tenths.

So test your tap water, to make sure it does not need any special aging: test pH right from the tap, then aerate in a bucket overnight and test again.

Assuming there is nothing complex about your water, you will do changes using a water changing device or with buckets. For small tanks, two 5 gallon buckets will do the job. Use one to store fresh, dechlorinated water of the same temperature as the tank. Use the second to siphon old water into.

The water changers are tubing arrangements that hook up to a faucet. They can be wasteful of water, but are very much simpler than carrying buckets. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

For big tanks (say 40 gallons and above), I use a bucket and hoses. I siphon some tank water into a bucket, catch the fish by hand and put them into the bucket. Then I turn off the filter, siphon out the tank, and refill directly by hose from the faucet. I add the dechlorinator directly to the tank as the water is going in. Make sure the temperature is the same as the bucket water. I usually leave the tank to settle down for 20 minutes or so, then turn on the filter and put the fish back in."

He also said the following about ammonia:

"I tend to be a very quantitative hobbyist. I make extensive use of test kits to calibrate myself to what care a given set of fish in a particular tank need. I typically change water when the nitrate level is between 20 and 30 mg/l (or ppm). This is for established tanks; for a tank that is "cycling" (developing the bacterial cultures that perform biofiltration), I change enough water to keep the ammonia below 1.0 ppm and the nitrites well below 0.5ppm."