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small_ranchu
post Mon, 11 Jun 2007 4:48 am
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Hello green water guru,
I recently brew green water in my 10 gallons tank with a lot of light and air circulation. I am ready to transfer green water into my 29, 55 gallons tank. Here are my questions (I can't find any though smile.gif ) for indoor setup

1. what is the size of your tank ( l x w x h ) and what is the wattages of the lighting system?
2. how long do you turn on the light per day?

Thanks.
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The Matrix
post Mon, 11 Jun 2007 11:39 am
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QUOTE(small_ranchu @ Mon, 11 Jun 2007 4:48 am) *

Hello green water guru,
I recently brew green water in my 10 gallons tank with a lot of light and air circulation. I am ready to transfer green water into my 29, 55 gallons tank. Here are my questions (I can't find any though smile.gif ) for indoor setup

1. what is the size of your tank ( l x w x h ) and what is the wattages of the lighting system?
2. how long do you turn on the light per day?

Thanks.


Use a simple rule .... 0.7 Watts per L of water at a minimum of 6500K white light full spectrum at uninterrupted 8 hours daily.
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desireless
post Mon, 11 Jun 2007 9:30 pm
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I reccommended 8 hours daily.

http://www.rafflesgold.com/forums/index.ph...mp;showentry=57
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small_ranchu
post Mon, 11 Jun 2007 11:47 pm
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0.7 watts per liter which means I need 145 watts for my 55 gallons tank. For a fact, Is green water is high light require algae? The requirement is almost identical to the requirement of high light plant. smile.gif



On the other hand, I am looking for low cost indoor green water setup smile.gif
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desireless
post Tue, 12 Jun 2007 1:19 am
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Don't know the maths for calculating the wattage but it is important that you use powerful plant light for green water purpose. For indoor purpose (typical 2ft or 2ft tank), MH lamp will be quite luxurious already. Take note of my journal that I have used PL lamp of 55 watts for a 2ft tank (40 litres, 10 gallon). Then I shifted to a tub of about 60-70 litres water and still using the same light set.
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small_ranchu
post Tue, 12 Jun 2007 4:07 am
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Thanks Ken,
I guess I have to do research on my own. Now I have two small ryukin in my 29 gallons(110 liters) tank. And I have two T5 planted lights on the tank(36 watts). The tank is getting green in two days; I can stay see the fish though. The parameter is good (ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0). Let's see what happen at the end. smile.gif
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GlassGoldfish
post Tue, 12 Jun 2007 7:28 am
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QUOTE(small_ranchu @ Mon, 11 Jun 2007 11:47 pm) *

On the other hand, I am looking for low cost indoor green water setup smile.gif


Place the tank near a sunny window! That's worked for me before.
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small_ranchu
post Tue, 12 Jun 2007 9:19 am
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Unfortunately I live in a room with very small windows.
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small_ranchu
post Wed, 20 Jun 2007 11:32 pm
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The first time I am using green water for second week.

horayyyy....

Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0 and Nitrate 0 (how can u achieve it in clear water? lol)

But 1 problem.
I saw blood patch on the scale and dorsal fin. Any idea why does it happen?
I buffer my water with Baking Soda as well. PH become 7.4 from 6.8(Tap water).
Thanks.
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GlassGoldfish
post Thu, 21 Jun 2007 1:37 am
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to me, bloody patch (or streaks??) on fins indicate stress and poor water quality. Perhaps there was an ammonia spike while the green water was taking over??

To me, a bloody patch on a scale is more serious, as it indicates a bacterial infection. Are there any sponge filters, or other filters in place? I had a re-curring bloody scale appear on a ranchu last year, and I think what did it was funky old pads in the filter. What you've got to figure out is where bacteria are coming from.

Your tap water could be irritating the fish, too. How to you implement a water change? Are you able to season the water?

This post has been edited by GlassGoldfish: Thu, 21 Jun 2007 1:45 am
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small_ranchu
post Thu, 21 Jun 2007 3:09 am
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In the green water tank, I don't have any filter except the air stone. Here is my water change method:
1. I take out water from the tank until 10-15% is left
2. I put the appropriate amount of Prime into the tank
3. While I am filing the tank, I add baking soda solution(water + BS) slowly.

Thanks.
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bekko
post Thu, 21 Jun 2007 1:38 pm
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Have you ever tired aerating your tap water (without baking soda) for an hour or so and then checking the pH again?

-steve

This post has been edited by bekko: Thu, 21 Jun 2007 1:41 pm
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small_ranchu
post Thu, 21 Jun 2007 6:43 pm
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No, I've never done that b4. Is there any effect by doing that?
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bekko
post Fri, 22 Jun 2007 2:47 am
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Your tap water may have an excess of carbon dioxide gas (CO2). Carbon dioxide is a weak acid. Once the water is aerated the excess carbon dioxide is driven out and the pH stabilizes above 7. In some areas, the water is so soft that baking soda is needed to prevent a pH crash. However, this is rare and most water already has enough alkalinity.

The fish are sensitive to changes in temperature and pH. It might help if you prepare the new water in a separate container the day before a water change. Dechlorinate and aerate the water overnight before using it. Don't use the baking soda if you do not need it.

-steve
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small_ranchu
post Fri, 22 Jun 2007 3:11 am
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Steve,
Thanks for explanation. My tap water PH is about 6.7, so I raise it to 7.2 by adding baking soda.

Is there any alternate way instead of aging water? To age water for 29 gallon tank is easy, but I don't have space for 90 gallon tank.

Thanks
Fred
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