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> Fishless Green Water Cultivation
CyberET
post Wed, 16 Jun 2004 5:47 pm
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yes smile.gif
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desireless
post Wed, 16 Jun 2004 5:53 pm
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How? unsure.gif

BTW, this is how it look like in my 30 litre brew after 3 days with fish. I don't think the algae is fully matured yet

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mountain
post Wed, 16 Jun 2004 6:10 pm
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matured algea?? wa .. now i am bloody confused .. cry.gif
how to tell?
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HappyBuddha
post Wed, 16 Jun 2004 6:44 pm
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QUOTE(desireless @ Wed 16 Jun 2004 05:52 PM)
How? unsure.gif

I think what ET is trying to find out is whether your alage were dead.

There's one difference in fishless green water cultivation that we must not overlook. In tradtional cultivation, fresh supplies of ammonia is provided by the fishes on a daily basis. When there's no fish involved, the ammonia provided by rotting pellets will be depleted by the developing algae. When there's no food for the algae, they die.

So it's important to replenish the ammonia producing pellets in fishless green water cultivation or risk seeing dead algae that settle down when there's no aeration in stagnant water. Eons ago I capped a small bottle of green water and kept it in a dark closet for 2 weeks. Without food/sunlight/DO, needless to say the algae are dead when I took the bottle out of the closet. What I found was settlements of green algae on the bottle's floor and the water is now clear. Shaking the bottle a few times "blended" the dead algae and the clear water returned to *almost* the same green water tint it used to be. So when your algae is dead yet with current circulating them, it will be hard to tell.

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olddog
post Thu, 17 Jun 2004 5:25 am
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QUOTE(HappyBuddha @ Wed 16 Jun 2004 10:43 AM)


In tradtional cultivation, fresh supplies of ammonia is provided by the fishes on a daily basis.  When there's no fish involved, the ammonia provided by rotting pellets will be depleted by the developing algae.  When there's no food for the algae, they die.


As far as I understand "Biomature" made by waterlife research is a pure fish safe amonia based bio load mix. If it kick starts BB it should also kick start green water.

http://www.waterlife.co.uk/waterlife/biomature.htm

Forrest.
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square_guy
post Thu, 17 Jun 2004 9:12 am
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QUOTE(olddog @ Thu 17 Jun 2004 05:25 AM)
As far as I understand "Biomature" made by waterlife research is a pure fish safe amonia based bio load mix. If it kick starts BB it should also kick start green water.

http://www.waterlife.co.uk/waterlife/biomature.htm

Forrest.

actually chemical ammonia can be introduced into the water via ammonia bicarbonate (and you get to buffer the water at the same time laugh.gif ) which is available in baking store. question is, can this be used to kick start green water? I have people saying that it wouldn't work as they have tried and failed. I haven't try this yet, so I can't really comment.

regarding the "Biomature", if there are already fishes in the tank, why need it then for cycling? If there isn't any fish, why make it fish safe? sounds to me another fancy stuff we dun need hmm.gif
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olddog
post Thu, 17 Jun 2004 9:51 am
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QUOTE(square_guy @ Thu 17 Jun 2004 01:12 AM)

regarding the "Biomature", if there are already fishes in the tank, why need it then for cycling? If there isn't any fish, why make it fish safe? sounds to me another fancy stuff we dun need  hmm.gif

Biomature is used to prep hospital tank filters to be on standby to take in fish without stress (NTS). Its also used to mature new set ups without fish present. Fish then go into the matured tank with no stress.
The point of the product is its capacity to mature tanks prior to adding the fish.
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square_guy
post Thu, 17 Jun 2004 12:26 pm
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QUOTE(olddog @ Thu 17 Jun 2004 09:51 AM)
Biomature is used to prep hospital tank filters to be on standby to take in fish without stress (NTS). Its also used to mature new set ups without fish present. Fish then go into the matured tank with no stress.
The point of the product is its capacity to mature tanks prior to adding the fish.

I have to admit that i didn't read the link tongue.gif

nonetheless, why use that when a much cheaper alternative (ammonium bicarbonate) is available?

it is like paying much more to buy diluted sodium thiosulphate solution (aka the usual anti-chlorine) when you can get sodium thiosulphate crystal at a lower price. I think that the commercial side of this hobby is filled with so many of such products.
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olddog
post Thu, 17 Jun 2004 12:41 pm
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QUOTE(square_guy @ Thu 17 Jun 2004 04:26 AM)
I think that the commercial side of this hobby is filled with so many of such products.

Yes I take your point. The situation is a bit like the black water extract sold to discus keepers in the UK. It’s basically a stew of peat and old leaves!!!!

We have a saying in England that sums the situation up…… “Money for old rope”
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HappyBuddha
post Thu, 17 Jun 2004 5:15 pm
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I also must admit I'm not reading that link too. I'm not fluent in science/chemistry the works... but I understand from bros that it's still not technically possible to package BB. There are ways but it's too costly for commerical success.

As for specifically using ammonia bicarbonate... those of you itching to try it out should be glad to know bro square already did.

http://www.rafflesgold.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=840

I think the conclusion is it doesn't really work.
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square_guy
post Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:28 pm
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QUOTE(HappyBuddha @ Thu 17 Jun 2004 05:14 PM)
I think the conclusion is it doesn't really work.

not! I haven't reach a conlcusion yet! mad.gif

To be frank, I didn't have time to do a proper documentation of the whole process. It does reduce ammonia introduced by the ammonium bicarbonate to safe level during the fishless cycling, but I am not sure how the filter fare when fishes are introduced. laugh.gif

my place is under renovation and everything is in a mess, including my tanks and tub unsure.gif
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jowy_ham
post Sun, 27 Jun 2004 2:26 am
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Hi green water Bros,

I shall continue here with my green water cultivation progress here ( http://www.rafflesgold.com/forums/index.ph...topic=522&st=60
http://www.rafflesgold.com/forums/index.ph...topic=522&st=75 )

10 Jun - 26 Jun, 2 weeks liao, still no green water mad.gif , only green algae, refer to pic.

Using Mozoo 55W PL tube ( from C328 ), on for more than 12 Hrs daily but not fix ( as in sometimes I on 24 Hrs, sometimes, I on for 13 Hrs but definitely more than 12 Hrs )

Y har ???

Should I re-start or continue ?

What else needs to been done ?

Please advise. beg2.gif beg2.gif

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white horse T1
post Mon, 28 Jun 2004 8:11 pm
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check yr lamp again if PL lamp or FL light.

if ok.fish or fishless method never mind. must have ammonia.

re-start the whole thing again. should be achievable in 8 -9 days.

make sure no one or no good samaritan at home switch off yr light during brewing process.
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jowy_ham
post Mon, 28 Jun 2004 11:12 pm
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Just throw away my tank of algae water today, will try again but not now.

No one switch off the light during the process but dunno why just couldn't get it right.

Will try again when I get some small health GFs ( Oranda which I saw in Pasir ris farmway )

BTW, how to check whether lamp is PL / FL ? cos I not electrical guy.
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desireless
post Tue, 29 Jun 2004 12:23 am
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FL and PL is referring to the light TUBE shape. FL means filament tube. The ones that you see in coffee shop and everywhere else. You will see that your Mozoo light tube is DUAL tube... that's PL already.

You have to get the Mozoo light set with WHITE/WHITE PL tube. It should cost $35 at C328. Don't get the cheap one at $28. That's only PINK/WHITE light which is not bright enough. Another I think at $32 house the BLUE/WHITE tube, which is also not bright enough.

Also note that for Mozoo/Enqing brand light set, ONLY the 2-ft light set comes with 55 watts ebalast. 3 ft and 4 ft are 18Watts and 36Wx2 resp.

If you have the correct light set, then you have to run the light for 24-7 to see the green kick in by 7-9 days.
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